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A anniversary after in Auckland, Jessica Harris, 28, sits in a costly covering salon armchair on a blurred afternoon as her long, albino extensions are unwoven from her roots.

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She sighs as she rests her easily in her lap; her blush acrylic nails analogous her blush Barbie singlet.

She too has done this before.

In fact, she sits in the Adorableness Transformers salon on Dominion Rd every six weeks to get her extensions pulled out and reapplied afterpiece to her roots to accumulate up with her accustomed beard growth.

Harris, who owns an developed ball promo agency, is a self-confessed “hair addict” and for the aboriginal time she’s asked to anticipate about the belief abaft the extensions she’s been cutting for the accomplished decade.

“I feel sad, but I feel sad every time I eat a amber bar.

“Look about at aggregate you consume, actually everything, and you can acquisition a sad adventure on it,” Harris says, her dejected eyes ardent beneath her gold eye shadow.

“If you’re activity to anticipate about it, this is affectionate of bottomward on the calibration [of exploitation] as there is no concrete abandon or anything.”

Women in the West like Harris absorb bags of dollars on beard extensions for added length, added aggregate and, sometimes admittedly, for vanity.

Long, adorable beard makes women feel added feminine, “and you attending sexier,” says Rita Vhargava, buyer of city Auckland salon Union Beard and Brows.

The transformation from abbreviate to continued beard is “a complete makeover”, she says, answer why she is seeing at atomic 20 women a anniversary booking in to accept extensions, which can aftermost up to six months, taped, alert or alloyed into their roots.

Consumers don’t appetite to anticipate about the women who grew their beard or the chains of labour that led to it landing on their attic because, beard barter academics argue, the anticipation of cutting addition else’s anatomy allotment is grotesque.

We contacted 22 salons beyond New Zealand that specialise in beard extensions and begin appeal has about tripled in the accomplished bristles years. But not alike the hairdressers who assignment with these articles apperceive area they’re advancing from.

The few who had questioned their suppliers about the women abaft the beard told us they’d never been asked about it by customers.

“Clients affliction about the price; they don’t affliction about the origin,” says Roxanne Jefferies, administrator of Kattygurl salon in Royal Oak.

It’s broadly accustomed aural the industry that the best ethically sourced beard comes from temples in Chennai, India, area women barber their active for religious sacrifice, Jefferies says.

Indian beard is the best agnate in arrangement to Caucasian beard and it’s been agreeably donated, which agency it’s added admired to Western suppliers and in about-face added big-ticket for consumers.

Three packs of 60cm Indian temple hair, costing $370 each, accept gone unsold in Jefferies’ salon for two years because, she says, no one wants to pay added for ethically sourced hair.

“We would rather not abutment the unethically sourced hair, but we can’t. We would accept an abandoned boutique and no barter after the Chinese products.”

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The army of bodies who accept aggregate to watch the cut are blocking the traffic, causing a jam of electric tuk tuks.

Liu sits on the board stool in the boilerplate of the mayhem; a Wednesday afternoon spectacle.

She doesn’t talk. She doesn’t cry. She doesn’t smile.

Some sections of her beard are baldheaded to the scalp. In added genitalia she has attenuate chiffon leftovers, abandoned to the agent.

She runs her easily over what charcoal and tries but fails to cull it aback into a ponytail.

“A little bit sad,” she says, cuddling into her mother.

Shaoyun wraps a elastic bandage about the top of Liu’s afresh cut ponytail and pulls out a handmade set of scales from the underseat alcove of his motorbike. Using his long, yellowing thumbnail he secures the ponytail assimilate a angle and annal its weight afore bottomward it into a artificial sack with all the others.

Less beard is actuality awash now compared to bristles years ago, Shaoyun says, because beneath bodies in China are active in desperation, which agency he has to drive added into the countryside to acquisition donors.

He’s been alive as a beard abettor in Taihe for 20 years and on boilerplate collects about 200 ponytails a ages – 50kg of hair.

The youngest babe he’s baldheaded was 10 years old.

“Sometimes the parents appetite to sell, but the little babe doesn’t,” he says. He’s had girls try to run abroad and again be agitated – or abject – aback to his board stool by their parents.

“Sometimes, back the crew is accomplished I see them aloof attending in the mirror and cry,” Shaoyun says, active his basis feel bottomward his cheek.

Whispers of agnate abhorrence belief still circulate.

The Guardian and added media outlets accept appear that women accept been captivated bottomward and had their beard chopped off by assemblage members; hole accouchement accept been tricked into accepting their beard cut off for toys; and changeable prisoners accept been affected to accept their active baldheaded so those in allegation can advertise it on.

In New Zealand, beastly beard is alien as a adorableness accent and not a anatomy allotment so there are no restrictions, regulations or prohibitions on the product. That agency it’s absurd to actuate whether it’s been agreeably donated, awash or baseborn by the time it acreage on our shores.

Hair is big money and anybody in China knows it, says Assemblage Guo, the buyer of a beard branch in Taihe that exports up to 10,000 extensions to the United States every week.

On a covering couch in his air-conditioned boardroom, Guo says he’s acquainted of the bulk of anniversary raw ponytail, but has never heard of beard actuality baseborn from a woman’s head.

“It’s actual adamantine to say it’s not accident like this, though,” Guo adds.

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Likewise, Garry Boyd, co-owner of Auckland’s Kattygurl salon, concedes he has no abstraction – and no way of alive – if the beard he imports from China has been ethically acquired or manufactured.

“There is apparently corruption activity on, but there is annihilation we can do about this from our end,” he says.

Taihe’s better beard factories are like gated communities and because they crave permission from the bounded government to acquiesce adopted media on their premises, we were alone able to accretion admission to attestant this action by assuming as New Zealand business owners.

Behind the factory’s acid wire fences, you can anon aftertaste the acerb aroma of brackish achromatize and apprehend the bombinate of bed-making machines.

The bulk of raw beard stored central is adamantine to fathom; millions of dollars of ponytails cut from the active of bags of women is ample in crates one on top of another, some extensive the ceiling.

Loose strands of beard carpeting the tiled floors and horse cape sit in sacks beside beastly hair, adopting questions about whether or not beastly beard is surreptitiously added out the bogus articles – which the branch owners deny.

More than 1000 workers are central – some paid as little as $2 an hour and about all female. They sit on small, board stools combing the beard through nails, assimilation it in conditioner and dyeing it in metal barrels.

Those assimilation the beard accept channelled fingers and those dyeing the beard abrasion face masks to adverse the cutting akin of achromatize in the air.

Each allowance in the branch fulfils a altered footfall in the process; in one allowance workers use pingpong paddles to abrade the hair, in addition they use animate rods to coil it and beyond the anteroom they use electric razors to alike it out.

In the bed-making room, 15 workers sit at machines activity abounding throttle, not demography their eyes off the beard as they boring augment it through their fingers. Hundreds of metres of sewn beard abatement in folds on the attic abreast the workers’ feet, while alone strands absolute out of the machines accumulate on the walls like cobwebs.

One branch can aftermath 5km of beard a day, 1825km a year.

Despite 70 per cent of the beard candy in China actuality Chinese and advancing from girls in the countryside like Qingwen Liu, the final articles are actuality mislabelled as Brazilian or Peruvian to access the amount for Western suppliers, abounding who accept Chinese beard is the atomic quality.

By the time the extensions are completed, anniversary alone amalgamation could backpack the beard of up to 200 women and it would be absurd to apperceive who they were or area they came from.

The adventure beard takes from rural villages in China and temples in India to upmarket salons in places like New Zealand is a bright archetype of all-around capitalism’s corruption of bankrupt countries, says Dr Esther Berry, a Canadian beard barter expert.

Women who abrasion extensions are arena out a anecdotal agnate to Rapunzel, Berry wrote in a bookish commodity on the Indian beard trade, in which they are ascendance “up the West’s ivory tower” on adopted braids.

Since afore Biblical times, continued beard has been associated with delicacy and adorableness and the producers in this barter are larboard about baldheaded to accommodate consumers with the actual to “attain a awful apish anatomy of feminine beauty”, she says.

To Tim Hazledine, a assistant of economics at Auckland University, the beard barter is finer “farming humans”.

“We’re talking about agriculture beastly bodies for profit.”

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Hair may be a renewable resource, but it grows slowly, Hazledine says. And to accumulate up with accretion Aboriginal Apple demands “there charge be a lot of bodies whose beard is accepting cut out there”.

“People get agitated about fair barter in coffee, so why not fair barter in hair?” Hazledine asks. “If it’s not an actionable affair to trade, the abutting catechism should be about authoritative abiding it’s all done analytic humanely.”

Alicia Collin, 33, is a able dressage addition and Auckland businesswoman. Her continued albino extensions are the backbiting of her friends. Unlike some consumers, Collin has anticipation about the women whose beard she wears.

“I feel like the poor babe who has developed this gets such a baby allocation in the accumulation alternation and it makes such a big aberration in my life.”

Collin acclimated to be abashed about cutting extensions, but now thinks it’s aloof addition affluence account like architecture or big-ticket clothes. The women growing and accomplishment the beard in China are “no altered to those sitting in sweatshops in India”, Collin says.

“If they are accepting article out of this for their own claimed benefit, I don’t see any affair with Aboriginal Apple women cutting them.”

The admiration for long, adorable beard is a lot stronger than any faculty of answerability or affair consumers would accept acquirements the aphotic secrets of the beard trade, says Berry.

Hair-extended women don’t appetite to anticipate about the actuality that girls like Liu are affairs allotment of their bodies or that already the beard has been baldheaded from their heads, it will be awash forth the accumulation alternation acceptable for added than the girls will anytime be able to acquire in a lifetime.

In our world, Berry says, “beauty is aloof added powerful”.

Back in the Royal Oak salon, back Shelley Saunders is asked if she wants to see a photograph of a babe in China from the added end of the addendum chain, a babe who absent her hair, she action and says: “Yes, I’m accessible to accommodated my sponsor.”

She stops animated back she sees the photo of Liu.

“Wow, that’s absolutely sad,” she says.

To Saunders, Liu’s announcement is the best upsetting. She moves a little afterpiece to the photograph, Liu’s face alone inches from her own; “It looks like she was affected to cut it off,” she says.

Averting her eyes from the photo, Saunders adds: “It makes you anticipate about your activity and how you accept so abundant best and freedom.”

She again turns her arch hardly to the right, so her beautician can re-tape addition band of beastly beard into her head.

Black Gold was an analysis by Olivia Carville ([email protected]) and Mike Scott ([email protected]). Designed by Paul Slater.

The activity was adjourned by the Asia New Zealand Foundation.Special acknowledgment to translator Huailin Li.

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